Short answer
For most sinks, buy a stainless steel basket strainer for a 3-1/2 in opening with a 1-1/2 in tailpiece. Choose a twist or lift-and-turn basket if you want a stopper that holds water, a post basket if you just want to catch food, and a disposal flange only if a garbage disposal is mounted under that bowl.
Kitchen sink drain types
Every kitchen sink drain does two jobs: it seals the hole in the sink, and it gives you a way to catch food or hold water. The fitting under the sink is nearly identical across styles. What changes is the basket on top.
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01Most common
Twist or lift-and-turn basket strainer
Best for: holding water to wash dishes in the bowl
- Opening
- 3-1/2 in
- Tailpiece
- 1-1/2 in
- Seal
- Putty or silicone
- Turn or press the basket to close it; lift it out to empty food scraps
- Stainless steel bodies resist corrosion better than plated brass or plastic, by most maker descriptions
- Look for a body that suits your sink thickness
-
02Simple
Post basket strainer
Best for: catching scraps when you never fill the bowl
- Opening
- 3-1/2 in
- Stopper
- Basket only, or a separate plug
- Upkeep
- Lift and empty
- A center post lets you lift the basket out with two fingers
- Some do not seal for holding water, so read the description
- Easy to pair with a separate rubber stopper
-
03One hand
Spring or push-down strainer
Best for: closing the drain with a fingertip
- Opening
- Usually 3-1/2 in
- Action
- Press to close, press to open
- Watch for
- Spring parts can wear
- A spring cartridge raises and lowers the basket
- Handy if your hands are full or wet
- More moving parts than a plain basket
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04Disposal only
Disposal flange
Best for: bowls with a garbage disposal mounted underneath
- Fits
- The disposal brand’s mount
- Includes
- Splash guard, stopper
- Not for
- Bowls without a disposal
- Replaces the basket strainer in that bowl
- Usually sold to match a disposal mounting system, so check the brand
- Splash guards and stoppers are sold separately too
Sizes: what actually has to match
Three measurements decide whether a kitchen strainer fits. The first is fixed by your sink, the second by your plumbing, and the third by the sink material.
| Measure | Typical | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Sink hole | 3-1/2 in | The usual US kitchen opening (Houzer). Some strainers cover 3-1/2 to 4 in (Keeney listing). |
| Tailpiece | 1-1/2 in | Kitchen drains run 1-1/2 in pipe, larger than the 1-1/4 in bathroom size (HomeGuide). |
| Sink thickness | Varies | Thin stainless needs little thread; thick cast iron or fireclay needs a longer body to reach the locknut. |
Not sure what you have? The sink drain size guide has a size chart and a quick measuring tool.
Sealing: putty, stain-free putty or silicone
The seal under the flange keeps water from creeping between the strainer and the sink. The rubber gasket underneath does the heavy lifting; the bead on top keeps water out of that gap.
- Stainless steel sinks: standard plumber’s putty is the usual choice, and it stays soft if you ever need to pull the strainer.
- Granite, quartz, marble and composite sinks: oil-based putty can stain stone. Oatey sells a stain-free putty for stone, and Ruvati notes silicone is a common choice on these sinks.
- Follow the sink maker. Some sink warranties name what to use.
Sealants
Finishes and materials
The basket and flange are the only parts you see. Match them to the faucet, or go stainless and let them disappear into the sink.
- Stainless steel blends into most stainless sinks.
- Matte black, gold and other colors are usually a coating over brass or stainless. They suit colored or composite sinks, and a strainer that matches the faucet looks deliberate.
- Plastic bodies cost less but can crack if the locknut is overtightened.
What comes in the box
A full kit includes the basket, the flange body, a rubber gasket, a friction ring, a locknut and a coupling nut. Some include the tailpiece and some do not, so check before you start. If your old tailpiece is corroded, replace it at the same time. The step-by-step replacement guide shows the order the parts go in.
Below the strainer
The strainer feeds a tailpiece, then a P-trap that holds a water seal against sewer gas. If the sink drains slowly after you swap the strainer, the clog is usually in the trap: see how to unclog a kitchen sink.
Questions people ask
What size is a kitchen sink drain?
The hole in most US kitchen sinks is 3-1/2 inches across, and the pipe under the strainer (the tailpiece) is 1-1/2 inches. Some strainers are made to cover openings from 3-1/2 to 4 inches. Measure the hole before you order.
Do all kitchen sink strainers fit all sinks?
No. Most fit a standard 3-1/2 inch hole, but sink thickness matters too. Thick cast iron, fireclay and composite sinks need a strainer body long enough to reach the locknut, so check the maximum sink thickness on the listing.
Should I use plumber’s putty or silicone on a kitchen strainer?
Plumber’s putty is the usual choice on stainless steel sinks. On granite, quartz, marble and other stone or composite sinks, oil-based putty can stain, so use a stain-free putty or 100 percent silicone. Follow the sink maker’s instructions.
What is the difference between a basket strainer and a disposal flange?
A basket strainer has a removable basket and stopper and drains straight into a tailpiece. A disposal flange is the sink fitting that a garbage disposal hangs from. You use one or the other in a given bowl, not both.
How do I know if my kitchen strainer is leaking?
Fill the bowl with the stopper closed, then look underneath with a flashlight and a dry paper towel. Drips at the locknut point to the gasket or putty. Drips lower down usually come from the coupling nut or a slip nut on the trap.
Sources
Last reviewed October 12, 2026. Parts, sizes and listings change; check the product details before you buy, and follow the maker’s instructions.